Eternal India Encyclopedia

Eternal India encyclopedia

LIFESTYLES

JEWELLERY : GLOSSARY

Halka (perhaps from Dar meaning a pearl in Arabic): A ring worn on the little ear. Jhumka : Bell-shaped drops. Jhumka : Jhumka of this variety is slightly different than its Kashmiri or Punjab counterpart. This variety is more rich in contents as it belonged to Delhi & Agra, the seats of Mughal authority, who were known to like everything not only ornate but superbly rich. This jhumka is always of solid gold, each furnished with one or more small pearls, garnets etc., sometimes a dozen or two pendants being attached to the circum- ference of each jhumka, sometimes suspending a hundred pearls. In the upper part is a small perfo- rated stud, sometimes ornamented, through which a ring about the thickness of fine knitting needle, and not less than half an inch in diameter, is inserted, it previ- ously passing through the ear in the part usually pierced. This ring, like every other fastening made to pass through the ear or nose, is of the purest gold. It is so pliant that the little hook made at one end, by bending the wire to fix it into a minute loop or formed at the other end by twisting it, may be straightened at pleasure by means of the nails only. In general, how- ever, the Jhumka is fixed to the lower edge of the Kamaphul. Sankhali, or gold chains (sometimes or- namented with pearls), which support the ears and its appendage. Kalas : A pinnacle or pointed ornament at the top of the head. Kan-ki-laung : A clove shaped ring. Kantala : A similar ornament like described above, but having a stud besides pendant. Karanphul: A star shaped earring. Kamaphul: A gold ornament having a star on the radi- ated centre of about an inch and half in diameter, sometimes richly ornamented by precious stones. It is fixed into the lobe of the ear, both by the usual mode of piercing, and by a chain (sankhali) of gold passing over the ear, so as to bear the weight of Kamaphul. Jhumka, which would else cause the lobe to the greatly extended downwards. Kamphul Dhedu and Jhumka : These are forms of tas- sel like ornaments, made with silver chains and little balls, fringe of silver chain work, etc. Khaleel : A small earring. Kundal : This is a large ring in which gems are fastened. It is also used to signify a ring with fish-shaped pen- dant. Kurdu: A sacred grass of gold and pearls. Latakan : Any hanging drop usually in the form of a grape. Laung : A small needle like ornament shaped as a clove

Paatan (literal meaning leaves): It is so named because of the designs resembling leaves. It is worn in any part of the ear, except in the lobe and the little ears.

Forehead

Ornaments Aarh : Literally a screen or a horizontal line drawn on the forehead. The ornament is, therefore, in the form of a flat- tened plate. It may be of plain gold or gold set with jewels.

Pankha : An ear ornament shaped like a fan.

Patri : Leaf-shaped rings.

Phulijhumka : A flower and bell shaped earring.

Phwrmi : Silkand tinsel tassels.

Pipal Pata : It is like Murki but has a drop or pendant ending in a fringe of little gold pipal leaves. Pipalpathi: Having drops shaped like the leaf of the Pipal tree (Ficus religiosa) Sankal-kan-ki : Chain-like ear ornaments, sometimes called Jhala. Taudara Ded'i: A huge star-shaped jewelled stud. Tid-patang : A locust-shaped jewelled pendant; along the lower edge of the crescent hangs a row of gold pipal leaves. Toti: A parrot shaped ring which is worn in the lobe of the ear. Zangiri : A chain worn with the Bala to keep it up. Nose Ornaments Baisar or Morin : It is worn on the right nostril. Those who wear this ornament and the Phulli are nicknamed ‘Baisarwali’ or ‘Phoolwali’. Bhaurraiya : A nose ring. Bohr : A jingling pendant of gold pipal leaves. Bulak : A small pendant, either worn hung to the carti- lage of the nose or else strung on a ‘nath’. Bulak : These are of two varieties, viz., Bulak and Chand-ka-bulak. The Bulak is basically a nasal trin- klet, flat in form not unlike that article of furniture called a footman and has at its narrowest part a couple of eyes. It is appended to the middle of the septum or central cartilage of the nose, by means of a gold screw passed through an orifice in it. The orna- ment lies flat upon the upper lip, having its broad end furnished with pendants of pearls, and its surface set with precious stones. Latakan : A pearl pendant hung from the central carti- lage of the nose. Latkan : A sort of ornament of pendants put on to the thin gold ring called a ‘nath’, and hanging from it. Laung : A small stud let into the flesh of the nostrils on one side; generally of gold, with a pearl or turquoi.se in it Machhalian-be-sir : A pendant shaped headless fishes. Momi : A small pendant for the above, shaped like the spread-out tail of a peacock. Nath : A large nose ring, one side of the ring being ornamented with a belt of jewels' or a few pearls, and gold spangle ornaments etc. hung to it. Nathini: A small ring worn on the left nostril by girls. Phulee : A small ring with single emerald or other stone of an oval shape as pendant.

Barwaali : Tinsel stars worn over the eye brows.

Bindi : A small tinsel forehead ornaments.

BucchiMarwarid : A cluster of pearls.

Chaand Bina : A moon shaped pendant.

Daamini : A fringe worn over the forehead on either side of the face; some of these are richly jewelled. Jhumar: A tassel-shaped ornament or pendant, mostly worn towards Delhi and Kashmir. Kutabi and Sosain : Both are lighter varieties of Daam- inL Taawit : A small amulet (or amulets) worn on the head. Tika : A small ornament on the forehead. A kind of pendant. Tikli : They mean a forehead ornament or mark for women. Tilak : A sectarian mark for men, or an ornament which takes its shape.

Ear Ornaments

Aloolak : Stone earrings.

Baata : An earring of lighter variety.

Bala : Very large thin rings worn by Kha- tris, Sikhs and Dogras; they have a pearl or so strung on the gold wire of which they are made. Bala : Small rings usually of gold.

Bala-katori-wala-Saada : An earring with a central boss like ornament.

Bali Bahaduri : It has a large pointed stud in the centre.

Bali : A set of rings worn round the edge of the ear.

Bali-Ghungri-dar : A heavy fringed earring. Bhadaarians or dandiaans : These, which consist of a number of small rings of pure gold (or, for the poorer sections of society, of silver or even tin) are affixed all along the border of ear, which is pierced for that pur- pose. The number worn is from four to eleven, gen- erally the latter, that is to say, in one ear, the left in- variably having one less. Birbali : A broad earring with three studs. Bugarai : Basically a Hindu ornament, a chain with pendant, worn in the hair. Bugudis, Balis, Kudis : Different kinds of thin earrings. Chhelkari : Rings : The last four kinds of the rings are worn on the upper part of the ear. Dur (gold): A small earring with three gold studs on one side. Durichal : An earring with pendant tassel.

to wear in the lobe of the ear or the nostril. Macchali : An ear ornament shaped like a fish.

MorPhunwaar : A pendant of jewels, being rude imita- tion of a peacock., Moti : Pearl rings, or more properly, an ear ornament of three pearls. Murki : A small Jhumka worn in the little ear.